Correct pruning of blackberries in the fall to increase the yield of bushes


Pruning blackberries in autumn requires knowledge and dexterity, so as not to inadvertently cut out the excess or not get caught in the tenacious hooks of its thorns. Let's take a step-by-step look at how best to do this.

Why do you need autumn pruning of blackberries

As you know, blackberries are shrubs with a two-year fruiting cycle. Thus, for the first summer we grow a green whip, groom and cherish it, wait for it to mature, become lignified, provide it with all wintering conditions. And next spring-summer it becomes covered with inflorescences and bears a harvest. He no longer bears fruit, unless only in the most extreme cases. So we no longer need his services. That is why the constant removal of biennial fertile wood is required. Otherwise, it will thicken the bush, preventing young shoots from ripening, shading the berries, making them less sweet.

In the photo there are blackberries

Why do you need pruning blackberries for the winter

  • Nutrients for the ripening of young shoots are spent ineffectively - on maintaining the old shoots in a conditioned state;
  • Where there is an abundance of old wood, there is more shade, less sun falls on the branches in the middle of the bush, which reduces its overall frost resistance;
  • It is very difficult to remove thickened blackberries for winter storage;
  • Pruning young lashes leads to the stimulation of flowering next summer;
  • Pruning normalizes the load of the crop, helping to improve its ripening, quantity, and helps to strengthen the bush.

Video about pruning blackberries in the fall

How to properly prune blackberries in the fall

  1. After harvesting, we carry out the first stage of pruning - we cut off all the fruit-bearing branches completely, without leaving hemp;
  2. Among young lashes, those that are not sufficiently ripe, thin, short, are also subject to removal;
  3. We remove those branches or their parts that have been damaged by pests, for example, aphids or spider mites - they are unlikely to survive the winter;
  4. All matured young lashes are also shortened by about a quarter. This will stimulate the formation of peduncles next summer;
  5. Based on the strength of root growth, we calculate the future load of the bush. A medium-sized plant can provide good nutrients for 6-8 fruit-bearing stalks. So, we leave 8-10 shoots for the winter. This reserve is required in case not all branches survive the winter;
  6. Cut the upper ends of annual shoots just above the bud. It is undesirable to leave hemp, they can lead to the development of purulent processes during winter sleep.

Photo of pruning blackberries

After wintering, we open the bushes, look at what is well preserved and what is not very good. The healthy part of the blackberry after warming in the sun is elastic to the touch, shiny brown. The frozen part of the wood looks black. It is either loose or fragile to the touch. It should be removed. If 6 branches survived the cold, that's good. If about 4 is also not bad, if less than three, then the yield will certainly be lower, but the berries will grow much larger.

Don't be afraid to cut out the excess - a healthy blackberry plant has tremendous growth vigor. Rather, thickening caused by insufficient removal of excess wood is harmful to it. Correct pruning increases yields.

We shape the bush wisely

In order to facilitate the autumn operations for the removal of fertile wood, we form a bush using a special method. First, it depends on whether your form is erect or creeping. Despite the fact that erect blackberries are considered more frost-resistant, it will still be useful to remove them under the snow. The whole trouble is that it is very fragile, little bending.

In the photo, pruning blackberries

We solve this problem by rolling.:

  1. In the spring, we lift the overwintered shoots vertically on the trellis, place them in the middle, directly above the roots of the bush.
  2. We let all the growing young shoots on both sides of the growth point, tying them to the lower wires. Thus, they grow parallel to the ground.
  3. In the fall, it will be easy to cut out everything that is not needed without accidentally removing the desired shoots. We cut off everything in the center at the root. We do not touch the creeping side lashes.
  4. Our sparse young shoots have already taken an almost horizontal shape over the summer. We choose the 8-10 strongest among them. We delete everything else.
  5. We shorten our wintering lashes, press them even more to the ground, cover them for the winter.
  6. In the spring, carefully raise them vertically, waiting for the lashes to warm up, become less brittle

We form creeping varieties differently. They are less hardy. But more flexible, however, coping with ten-meter lashes is also not an easy task. In addition, there is more fuss about the thorns. Sometimes it is recommended to leave 8-10 young shoots immediately in the spring, without waiting for them to grow into many-meter twigs. This method has its advantages - it saves the nutrients needed for the ripening of the crop and the wood of the roots and other branches. But in the summer, you constantly have to fight with all the new climbing shoots.

In the photo, a blackberry bush

Formation of the creeping form

  1. We wind it onto the trellis, like overwintered lashes on a reel. We let them, for example, on the right hand from the point of growth.
  2. To the left we wind up all the young growth.
  3. If we do not remove excess shoots in the summer, we do it in the fall. before cutting the blackberry for the winter, remove it from the trellis, unfold it on the ground so that the vine does not get confused. We leave 8 the healthiest, strongest. We cut out the rest completely.
  4. Also, remove the entire right side of the fruit bearing at the very root.
  5. We fold the whips, put them in trenches for winter storage.

Video about growing blackberries

Thorns are a minor problem with these methods of bush guidance. We do not need to rip out old branches from the hair of young shoots, pushing through the thorns from the pruners to them. But pruning blackberries without thorns is even less time consuming. Especially thornless varieties are valuable in creeping forms; we do not have to unravel in the spring or before wintering the whips of black berries like barbed wire.

The repairing blackberry garden deserves a separate word. Pruning it is perhaps the simplest agricultural activity. We simply remove at the root all the wood that has grown over the summer, covering only the root system for winter. Because next spring she will again give flowering whips.

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Repaired raspberries: one crop is good, two is better!

A harvest is good, but two harvests are better! Breeders are tirelessly looking for ways to prolong the fruiting of berry crops loved by gardeners and create remontant varieties, a feature of which is double (and in some varieties - almost continuous) long-term (usually until the very autumn frosts) fruiting. There are such varieties and raspberries.


The right varieties - a good harvest


When to fertilize your raspberry plantation

For ordinary varieties, care begins in late July and early August. First, pruning is carried out, then abundant watering and fertilization for raspberries - in the fall, all that remains is to mulch the soil in order to reduce moisture evaporation.

How to feed remontant raspberries in September, will tell you the appearance of the plant:

  • the edges of the leaves were dry and the berries of the second harvest were sour - potassium deficiency
  • thin shoots and small leaves - it's time to add phosphates.

Top dressing of raspberries in the fall is carried out with those fertilizers that most fully correspond to the state of the soil. If organic matter was introduced a long time ago, 2 - 3 years ago, then it is time to restore the fertile layer. For raspberries, this is important, since their root system is in the upper soil layer, and it must be enriched with minerals and organics.

How to feed raspberries in the fall after pruning, using organic substances:

  • Wood ash. The content of potassium and phosphorus in this substance is maximum. Ash is used dry or insisted on water. Then it is evenly distributed in the raspberries and sprinkled with soil. Plant residues serve as food for beneficial soil bacteria, which create a fertile layer. Quantity per square meter - 300 g per bucket of water, leave for 3-4 days. Make a depression around the bush and pour the solution there, cover it with earth.

  • Bone flour. Contains phosphorus, calcium and trace elements. A feeding for raspberries is introduced in the fall in a dry form, after which 2 - 3 years you can not fertilize the soil with phosphates. Bone waste dissolves for a long time and constantly release nutrients into the soil.
  • Siderata for raspberries in autumn - an alternative to manure, but much cheaper. You can sow lupine, clover, vetch, cereals between the bushes, and in winter, cut and mulch the soil with greenery. To accelerate decomposition, the green manure layer is covered with straw and watered. When to plant green manures for raspberries depends on the climate: for their growth, there should be a time reserve of 1.5 - 2 months.
  • The manure is used semi-rotted or rotted so that the nitrogen content meets the autumn standards. Fresh substance is not used due to the large amount of ammonia, which stimulates the growth of the shoots. In autumn, this is not necessary, since new branches will not have time to woody and will die in frost. This is a dangerous bacterial or fungal infection of the entire plantation.

Organic matter - these are the substances with which you can feed raspberries in August, because before the onset of cold weather another 2 - 3 months and organic matter will have time to partially decompose and support the root system.


Lunar sowing calendar for january 2020 year of the florist

The history of the appearance of the lunar calendar, as well as the name of its creator, are not known for certain. But the fact that seeds sown at different times, or planted plants, have differences in development, has been noticed since ancient times.

Favorable days for sowing in January 2020 - 1, 5, 6, 14, 16, 18, 22, 25.

Certain phases of the moon can have a beneficial effect on the growth of flowers and vegetable crops, the study of this rule, which has been repeatedly confirmed in practice, has led to the need to systematize the information accumulated on this issue.


Close planting of bushes next to each other should be avoided.... This will make it difficult to care for plantings and harvest. It is better to maintain a distance of 1.5-2 m and alternate between different varieties, which will extend the fruiting of the bushes for the entire season.

Do I need to plant two bushes next to each other

Planting two or more bushes is required for high-quality pollination.... Insects will transfer pollen from one plant to another, significantly increasing yields. You can place plantings in the corners of the site, agreeing with neighbors about the possibility of cross-pollination.


Herbert blueberry is one of the best you can grow in your garden. This is in the full sense of the word a tall blueberry - the height of a bush can reach 2.2 m!

Of course, the fruits are not as gigantic as those of the Bonus, but they are still quite large - about 2 cm in diameter. They have a delicate taste, they do not crumble or crack when overripe.

The bushes of this variety multiply easily, winter well, give up to 9 kg of harvest per season and are unlikely to cause you much trouble.

Maturation Bush height (m) Berry diameter (mm) Productivity (kg per bush) Features of the
Mid august 1,8-2,2 20-22 5-9 Reproduces easily


Gooseberry Malachite Growing and Care

Growing conditions
Planting Malachite requires, first of all, a well-lit place; it is necessary to take into account the nearby fruit trees, which can make the area shady.
The plant does not die from a draft or strong wind, but the berries can crumble, so it's worth making a small shelter.

It is impossible to plant close to groundwater, such a gardener's step can lead to fungal diseases.
The site should be flat or slightly elevated; in low places, there is no need to plant a shrub.
Gooseberry Malachite grows in clean and well-groomed lands without weeds or last year's foliage.
Aeration is of particular importance; for planting, it is better to give preference to chernozems or loams.
Planting time You can plant the plant in open soil in spring and autumn.
However, the autumn option is preferable, in this case, the root system will have time to gain a foothold before the onset of cold weather, and already in the spring season, Malachite will begin to fully develop.

Planting is carried out in clean soil.
The distance between the bushes must be at least 1 m.

Planting rules for gooseberry Malachite:
Deepen the root section by 5 cm, thanks to this, the seedling will be able to quickly form the root system of placement and it is easier to transfer the transplant.
Leave a distance of 1 m between the seedlings, remember that if the bushes thicken strongly, then caring for Malachite in the future will be very difficult.
And this will negatively affect the taste of the gooseberries.
If you plan to plant a large number of bushes, then increase the distance by 1.5-2 times.
Dig the depth of the hole by 0.5-0.6 m.
Do not apply top dressing.
Limit yourself only to watering the plant, add fertilizer to the root circle after the gooseberry has finally taken root in your garden.
During the autumn planting, pour 10 liters of water into the sandy loam soil under each seedling.
Use 5 liters each in spring, as the soil is wet on its own.

Seasonal care basics
Cultivation of a crop has certain properties that you need to pay attention to.
Main care activities: watering, loosening, mulching, fertilizing and pruning.

Soil care
Standard soil maintenance includes loosening the soil and removing weeds.
In the summer, you can use mulch, it helps to retain moisture, for this you can use sawdust, straw, nut shells.
It improves the structure of the soil, prevents dry crust and slows down the emergence of grass.

Support
The height of the gooseberry reaches 1.5 m.
Shoots of this length often fall to the ground or simply lean towards it.
This is especially observed during fruiting.

To protect the berries from falling to the ground, and the branches from damage, you can use several types of supports.

Supports for gooseberry Malachite:
Twine tying.
This is the simplest method, applied during the maturation of the shrub.
The option saves stems and berries from death, they do not sink close to the soil and do not fall under the attack of pests.
The support is uncomfortable, especially during harvest.

Square or round posts on uprights.
They are installed around the plant and take up a lot of space.
The height of one support is about 0.5 m. In this case, the branches rest on the rigid walls of the racks.

Tapestries.
The height of the shrub makes it possible to place it on a trellis.
This method is ideal in every way.
It is not so difficult to install them, and the harvest is easy and quick.

Watering
A decent harvest is obtained only when the plant receives all the nutrients in full, and the water balance is not disturbed.
Water the gooseberries during the formation of ovaries, young shoots, and during the ripening period.
To enhance the growth of the root system and prepare the shrub for the cold, moisture-charging irrigation should be done in mid-autumn.

With a lack of water in gooseberries, the berries begin to shrink and the leaves quickly fall off.

Shrubs are watered at the very root so that fungal diseases do not attack the wet greens of the culture.
Do not use cold water.
To prevent moisture from evaporating, the root area is mulched.

Top dressing
The Malachite variety is an unpretentious crop, but it needs fertilizers, like other berry plants.
Top dressing should be applied several times a year:
Fertilizers are applied in the 2nd year after planting, it is carried out to improve flowering - add 60 g of ammonium nitrate and 40 g of urea under the bush.
After harvesting the fruits, apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Pruning and shaping the crown
Immediately after planting the shrub, it is necessary to carry out the primary pruning of the crown.
All shoots are shortened without touching about 6 lower buds.
In subsequent times, pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds begin to swell and at the end of autumn until the time when the shrub sheds yellowed foliage.

Do not delay pruning in the spring, if the sap flow has already begun, then the event with branches can harm the shrub.
In the fall, cut off low-growing shoots.
Sick and too dark branches await a similar fate.
The tops are also shortened, especially if the berries of the bush have begun to shrink.

Preparing for winter
Malachite belongs to frost-resistant shrubs, but it is better to cover it for the winter (especially if the winter is not snowy).
Warming helps the plant to wake up faster after hibernation.
Agrofibre can be used as a covering material.
In the spring season, before the plant wakes up, the protective layer must be removed.
Further, surface loosening of the soil is carried out in order to avoid the finds of pest larvae.
While insects are "sleeping", pour boiling water on the ground and spray hot water on all branches of the bush. "Shower" will awaken the kidneys and destroy all harmful insects.


Watch the video: How to Get FREE Blueberry Plants from Store Bought Blueberries!


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